Point Reyes – Wildcat Camp

Last weekend we camped at Wildcat, site #5 on Friday and Saturday.

I have to preface this post by saying that Point Reyes is pretty much my most favorite place in the world. It is endlessly beautiful and astonishing. This was our first time at Wildcat, and it is a top contender for our best camp yet.

We left Davis a little late on Friday, so by the time we checked in at Bear Valley Visitor Center and drove to the Palomarin parking lot it was nearly 5:30 and the sun had just dipped behind the horizon.

So we geared up, headlamps for all, and started on the 5.5 mile hike to Wildcat Camp. It was our first night hike and the boys were incredible – no complaining, and only minimal bribery with twizzlers and peanut m&ms. We had the fortune of a full moon, which when reflecting off the white trail rocks and onto the immense black ocean, was just amazing.

Tent site

We made it to the campsite just after 8:30pm, passing many different micro-climates and little lakes along the way – using Coast trail. We had a little trouble finding site #5, since the sites are only marked on the bear boxes, but we were set up in no time.

Before we could roll out the sleeping bags, Ozi had fallen asleep perched up in the corner of the tent. The next morning was clear, cold and sunny. Just stunning.

We set out on a hike to Alamere Falls via Ocean Lake Loop and Coast Trail. Once the sun came out from behind the mountains, it was a perfect, warm December day. Ocean Lake Loop was a nice hike – with gentle climbs that lead to a mid-way overlook point with a fantastic view.

Ocean Lake View

It was about 2 miles from the campsite to Alamere Falls; the last bit is an unmaintained trial, but it probably gets a lot of use so it wasn’t as hazardous as the trailhead sign suggested.

Alamere sign

Once we got to the falls, it was totally unexpected and so pretty.

We hiked down to see the little falls, sat up on a flat spot and ate lunch. (Which reminds me to write a blog post about our various, yet-perfected attempts at bringing the right kind/amount of food).

makeshift mountain-side trail

After negotiating with Michael, we eased the kids (and ourselves) down the side of a makeshift, broken shale-covered “trail” to the beach about 40 feet below. It was quite a sight when you get down, because you’re right next to the waterfall.

The kids played there for a bit, throwing various rocks and beach debris into the waterfall.

We left the falls and walked back to Wildcat on the beach. We made ourselves a two-hour detour by stopping to play/sleep/be lazy on the sand. That’s probably the best way to spend a Saturday afternoon in December … laying on a nearly-deserted beach and soaking up Vitamin D.

We made it back to camp (about 3 miles total) and sat out at the cliff’s edge and watched the sunset. Pretty idyllic. (Check out more pictures)

Once the sun went down, it got pretty cold, but nothing that we couldn’t manage. Even though we’re on the coast, I did worry about it getting a little chilly. But no worries there.

We made dinner, got the kids some hot chocolate (can’t believe we didn’t think of this earlier), and after a massive freak-out from Ozi, we were all headed off to sleep.

The next morning we packed up and hiked out. Maybe it’s better to hike in the dark … or maybe in the dark you don’t notice that the trail is mostly down hill. But that 5.5 on the way back to Palomarin was pretty hellish. Mostly uphill, and at the beginning, which wears you down for the rest of it.

This was the longest hike we’ve done together with our packs on, and it definitely felt that way. But we made it, and now that I’ve slept off most of the shoulder pain, I’d certainly do it again.

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Henry Coe Hunting Hollow Entrance

Our first voyage into Henry Coe State Park was incredible. The 87,000 acre park is the largest state park in Northern California. When you start at the Hunting Hollow entrance, you are able to walk a mile into the park and camp wherever you like as long as you’re out of sight of other campers.

When we pulled into the parking area, there were about 100 people preparing for a crazy-style geocaching scavenger hunt. It was a little intimidating as we initially thought that they were all just there to camp … we felt pretty unprepared compared to the teams of folks who seemed outfitted to survive the apocalypse.

But we were reassured after talking to the ranger and he showed us some pretty interesting camping spots on the map. At Hunting Hollow, you just drop a check or cash into an envelope with your address and car information in order to register.

We geared up and hiked in about 3 miles on a pretty well-developed (but unpaved) road [picture on left]. The weather was beautiful and sunny.

We were on the watch for tarantulas because – supposedly – they breed in Henry Coe. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any. But we did spot some black tailed deer and a cool snake skin.

We hiked off the trail and through a grassy field to set up camp in a valley next to a semi-dry creek. It was pretty amazing to just “hike off into the wilderness” and unpack in the spot we liked best.

We pitched the tent pretty quickly, ate some food and the boys occupied themselves by playing in the creek bed.

There were some annoying stickers in the tall grasses, but other than that most of the flora was quite pretty. Many of the trees’ leaves were changing colors, or falling into big puffy piles that we could run around in.

We hiked up one of the hills on the side of us to get a view of the park. We found an antler that a young deer must have grown out of – that was pretty neat.

It rained like mad during the night and we’re pretty happy that our tent kept us warm and dry. However, there were night-time bathroom trips that were quite annoying, especially since the backcountry camping in Henry Coe doesn’t have any pit toilets. So … yeah. There’s a first for everything.

The next day we took a 8 mile hike up to Redfern Pond and back down a pretty steep mountain to get back to the camp site. There are some amazing views of the valley and the clouds are just incredible when you’re up that high.

Overall it was a great trip and we will definitely return to the backcountry camping at Henry Coe. Next time we’ll try to hike a little deeper into the park, or perhaps hike up to Redfern Pond and camp where we’ll have a view.

 

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Sky Camp

Our second camping trip to Point Reyes brought us to Sky Camp – mostly because Coast Camp was full. I’m glad we went because it was a really different kind of experience.

Sky Camp is about a 1.4 mile hike (gradual incline) on a wide, level road from the lot where we’d parked. We didn’t need any breaks, but my heart was racing carrying  my water-heavy pack up that steady slope. But the campground is surrounded by beautiful trees – a huge semi-circle of pines enclose the campsites.

Our campsite (site #8) was surrounded by eye-high shrubs, which helped to make it feel private. But you could still hear your neighbors pretty clearly and most of the eye-high shrubs were poison oak.

Tent set up

Also the ground was hard, rocky and dusty. We worried that it would scrape a hole in the bottom of our new tent (gasp!). Other sites in the camp looked really nice. Sites 5 and 6 were in a pine tree forested area. Site 3, 4, 9, 11 probably have an incredible view on a clear day – you could probably see the ocean.

Site 1 and 2 are perfect for large groups, and a couple with horses were staying in site 1 when we were there.

All in all it was a nice time. The food locker was good, someone had left charcoal to use but we drowned it in gin and couldn’t get it to light. No wood fires, no fire ring, but I think that’s standard for any campsite in Point Reyes.

It was pretty foggy in the morning and evening – but in the middle of the night the sky was crystal clear and you could see thousands of stars. Pretty amazing.

 

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Getting our feet wet

It had been nearly a year of living in Northern CA, and a long summer spent in the dry Sonoran desert heat. I thought we should go for a hike – just a day trip into the woods, and show the kids a promised glimpse of the coast redwoods.

We ended up at Muir Woods. We found a lot of what we expected to see, but were more often surprised by our experience there.

... so these are redwoods ...

Expected:
redwoods
lush moss and ferns
photo ops
manageable hiking trails

Not expected:
throngs of tourists
cold, damp, windy weather
stressful parking conditions